Begin with koulouri from a bright cart near the ferry gates, still warm, sesame popping softly against your teeth. Spread a little fresh cheese or nibble it plain while scanning the waterfront for old cafes. Friendly greetings in Greek repay themselves tenfold. Ask a vendor where they grab lunch; their directions often thread you through honest, unfussy kitchens.
At the Athens Central Market, displays of glistening fish and hanging meats announce the day’s appetite. Cross into Psirri for grilled skewers, lemon potatoes, and cool tzatziki. Order a few meze plates for sharing, plus a carafe of house wine. Keep receipts handy and portions small. Leave room for a nutty spoon sweet or flaky kataifi curled like seafoam.
End with Greek coffee, grounds thick and fragrant, then crack the caramelized top of galaktoboureko, custard wrapped in buttery phyllo. Sit where the breeze threads through, and breathe. Allow fifteen spare minutes for the metro or taxi queue. Jot down the street name for next time, because Athens rewards returners with shortcuts invisible to hurried wanderers.